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[Oyster Gardening - For Restoration & Education]
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[Oyster Care and Maintenance]

To ensure the most efficient growth, you will need to:

You can best accomplish all of these objectives by periodically pulling the float onto a dock or shore and letting it dry out. Shading the float by tying it up under a dock or making a simple, lightweight cover can also help reduce fouling. The following expands on steps you can take to optimize the growth and survival of your oysters.

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Control of Fouling Organisms

Some species of barnacles and mussels can withstand periodic exposure to air, though most can be controlled through desiccation or drying out. While oyster spat are capable of withstanding extended periods of exposure to air, the length of time will vary according to air, temperature, humidity and sunlight. It is not wise to allow oysters to sit in hot, direct sunlight for more than 3 or 4 hours, though this length of time should be sufficient to control most of the unwanted fouling organisms. During periods of cooler weather or overcast skies, or even rain, oysters can survive longer periods of desiccation and even leaving them exposed for a whole day should not cause problems of survival. Most Taylor floats should be exposed to air at least once every two weeks, though in some areas you may have to do this more frequently. Experience in maintaining your float will be the best guide.

There are several methods of desiccation: trays can be pulled out of the water and placed on the pier; they can be moved ashore during high tide and exposed during low tide; or lines supporting the trays can be adjusted during high tide so that when the tide falls, the trays are suspended out of the water until the tide returns. If you choose the latter technique, the float must be tied with four lines tied at the corners of the PVC frame and the wire. The method you use will depend on your site and your individual preference.

Filamentous algae are one of the most persistent fouling organisms; while they do not harm the oysters, they make handling difficult and impede your ability to observe the growth of your spat. The best way to control such algae is to make sure it does not get started. As soon as you detect algae in your Taylor float, you should begin a regular desiccation schedule. Once these plants get established, they can grow very fast. If your float has a heavy fouling of algae, remove as much as possible prior to desiccation; once established, it is unlikely that you will be able to totally remove it from the trays. Another method of controlling filamentous algae growth is to limit the sunlight reaching the float by covering it with an opaque cover.

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Cleaning Floats

Taylor floats and all other forms of tray culture trap sediment that is suspended in the water. Some tributaries have high loads of suspended sediment, while some typically have less. The type of sediments in water can vary as well. Some are composed of heavy particles like sand while others are made up of fine clay. Examining the bottom sediment near your site will give an indication of what you may expect to see in your float. Sandy sediments are seldom major problems in tray culture: sand particles tend to settle out of the water because of their relatively large size. Floats located in areas where there is high wave activity may occasionally need to be cleaned after major storms.

Fine clay sediment is more common in the Chesapeake Bay and, therefore, more of a problem. The oysters in floats and trays in themselves serve as a system of mini baffles that cause suspended sediments to settle out from the water. In addition, the filtering activity of the oysters removes some suspended particles from the water, some of which are algae and some sediment. The sediment particles are released as "pseudofeces" while waste products are also expelled. Oysters deposit these particles on the bottom of the float. Sediment and oyster feces can be detrimental to survival of your oysters. Without routine cleaning, oysters can quickly become covered which can prohibit their ability to feed, and breathe. When this happens, oysters found beneath this sediment are likely to die. For this reason, it is critically important that your floats be cleaned on a regular basis. The time between cleanings will vary according to the conditions at your site, but all floats should be cleaned at least every two weeks. Cleaning can consist of rapidly moving the floats up and down in the water until all sediments have been rinsed off, or by using a hose if available. An excellent time to do this would be when the floats are raised for desiccation.

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Oyster Predators

While oysters have many natural predators in the Chesapeake Bay, our Taylor floats will help to exclude many of them. Still, several species of crabs, fishes, and other animals all may feed on oysters at one point in their life cycle. The mesh sides of your trays should limit most major predators with one exception, the oyster flatworm Styloccus elipticus, which can have a devastating impact on young oysters. The mesh of your Taylor floats will not restrict flatworm infestation as the worms spread via a planktonic larval form. Flatworms reproduce throughout the summer in Maryland and one of their favorite foods is oyster spat. A heavy flatworm infestation could result in over 90% mortality of your spat in a couple of weeks. Therefore it is important that you monitor each tray for flatworm presence. The good news is that flatworms can be controlled through desiccation so the regular schedule of desiccation to control other fouling is likely to also control flatworm populations and mortality of your spat.

Blue crabs in your floats should also be removed. While they should not cause major moralities in the floats, a confined blue crab will eat what is available to it. It's not likely that most other oyster predators will cause problems in the floats. One advantage to spat-on-shell is that they are generally more predation resistant than cultchless oysters. The shell to which they have attached to acts as protection to the spat until they reach a size where predation is more difficult.

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[oyster shell button]Getting Started


[oyster shell button]Oysters & Oyster Seed


[oyster shell button]Oyster Care


[oyster shell button]Oyster Ecology


[oyster shell button]Oyster Garden Data


[oyster shell button]For More Information


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This page was last modified Wednesday, 25-Aug-1999 13:23:26 EDT

The Oyster Gardening Program is a cooperative effort of the Oyster Alliance
Chesapeake Bay Foundation ~ Maryland Sea Grant Extension Program
University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science ~ Oyster Recovery Partnership

This page is part of the Maryland Sea Grant Oyster web site.

For more information, report problems or provide comments, please contact webmaster@mdsg.umd.edu